FIRST THINGS FIRST:
Buy a good pruning book. You'll refer to it over and over again throughout the years.
Pruning by David Squire is our favourite - it's clearly written and illustrated, and covers tree and cane fruits as well.
Buy a really good pair of pruning shears (secateurs) and learn how to sharpen them.
We like the Felco brand because they last forever, they have replacement parts available, and they sell a left-handed model. Keep them sharp and oiled.
Unless you're growing Mini roses exclusively, you'll need a heavy duty long handled lopper, plus a pruning saw and ideally a good strong pruning knife for trimming cuts.
Get some good quality pruning gloves to protect you from the thorns. Long heavy cuffs are an advantage in reducing bloodletting.
Vi recommends goat-skin gloves (available from Edmonds Roses in Oregon),
Ielean finds that the Watson Rose Warriors are the best of the local brands but they do wear out quickly.
Start a diary: to record how you pruned your roses every year, followed by notes on the roses' performance.
STOP, LOOK and THINK:
Go and look at your rose. Decide on the type of rose it is:
Hybrid Tea
Floribunda
Climber
Rambler
Old Garden Rose
Species - etc.
The type of rose affects the pruning method. We'll give some hints here, and your pruning book will have more specifics.
Then think about this individual rose:
Do you know what this rose's growth habits are?
Is it a rampant grower, is it delicate?
How did it respond to pruning last year?
Did it bloom well?
Did it put on growth where you wanted?
Keep notes on your roses so you will know how they performed year to year
Do you have any particular goals for this rose?
How much space do you have to give it?
Do you want to confine it or get it to bush out?
Do you want it to climb or go along a fence?
Do you want it to be less twiggy, taller, shorter, etc.?
AND: is this rose truly suited to what you want it to do? With very few exceptions, you can't make a shrub rose climb, or turn a rambler into a neat bush. Be realistic in your goals.
NOW GET OUT YOUR PRUNERS:
Pruning Hybrid Tea and Floribunda bushes:
In general, Hybrid Teas respond to hard pruning with fewer but larger individual blooms. Floribundas should not be pruned as far back because you want a larger flush of flowers on a bushier plant.
If you are aiming for a bush with a maximum height of three feet for example, start by cutting all stems at the three foot mark.
Then apply the three "D's" - look for diseased, damaged or dead wood and remove it. If you've had to remove a lot of diseased wood, don't worry too much - the rose will recover and send out new canes, or in the worst case it will die and you'll replace it. But don't be tempted to leave diseased wood on the bush.
Keep the sturdy stems that will support good growth and remove all of the small twiggy stems under the size of a pencil (this depends on the variety - some are naturally slender so adjust your decisions as necessary)
Open the inside of the bush - remove branches that are crossing to the inside and reduce the number of inside stems, to promote good air circulation. This may involve selectively removing large, older stems, especially if there are other sturdy new stems already established to take their place.
When taking out entire canes, cut as close to the bud union as possible - try to make it flush, don't leave a stub. You may need to trim the cut with a pruning saw or knife.
Cut the stems you are keeping to about 1/4" above an outward-facing bud or swelling on the cane, if you can find one. If you are pruning early in the dormant season, you may not see buds. Just prune back to some healthy wood and return in the Spring to trim back further if necessary.
Cut at a slight angle away from the bud.
Make your cuts clean and without ragged edges - keep your secateurs sharp. Disinfect your tools as often as you can by dipping in a mild bleach solution - this is to avoid transferring disease between cuts and between plants.
Look at the rose to see that the shape is generally balanced. It won't be perfect like in the magazines, that's OK.
Clean up all the leaves and pruned stems from the ground around the rose - the litter on the ground is where disease over-winters. Dispose of this litter in the garbage or by burning - do not compost - the diseases can survive composting.
If you want to apply a dormant oil and lime sulfur spray, now is the time to do it. If you want, you can seal your pruning cuts with pruning wax to prevent cane borers from getting in.
If there is still apt to be cold weather, you can mulch over the bud union with leaves or compost for protection from frost.
Pruning Climbers:
Don't prune off the long stems! They are the foundation for the climbing rose.
Decide what kind of climber it is - does it bloom on new wood or last year's growth?
Large Flowered Climbers - Don Juan, Compassion, New Dawn, and some shrubs like Mme.
Isaac Periere and Gertrude Jeykll who put out long, strong stems.
Get as many long canes as possible into a horizontal position by tying over onto a fence, wire, trellis or stake.
Cut out any weak or diseased shoots, and if you have your long, horizontal canes selected, cut out any branching canes or canes that are sprouting in the wrong direction.
Any branches (called laterals) coming out of these main horizontal canes, trim back to 2 - 5 inches or three buds, depending on the rose. Trimming the laterals creates spurs, each of which will bloom. If you were to let the laterals grow, they would shoot skyward and you'd get only flowers at the tips.
You are creating a framework of long canes with short lateral shoots. If you have pruned spur-forming Apples, you already know what to do.
Once you have a good strong framework, then grit your teeth every couple of years and selectively remove one or two of the old horizontal canes. This is to encourage strong new growth from the base.
Pruning Ramblers:
Generally you take out canes that have flowered in the summer, right back to the base, and keep your new growth tied in to the trellis or fence. This is a similar approach to Raspberries.
Pruning Species roses
Generally don't cut them high up on the stems - they'll branch out in all directions from there.
After removing the three "D's", trim back laterals but don't cut the tips of the long canes.
Thin species roses by selectively cutting canes right back to the base.
Once blooming roses in general should be pruned in the summer after blooming. Pruning in winter can destroy the next year's bloom.
Alternative pruning:
Some, such as Graham Stewart Thomas, prefer letting Modern Shrubs and Species bush roses grow without pruning at all - just occasional thinning by removing main stems and shortening of side shoots.
The limiting factor is how much room you have in the garden to let them sprawl.
(It may be purely coincidence that the rose named after G.S.T. is totally unruly and isn't amenable to any form of discipline)
When and how often to prune depends on both the rose and the climate. A question came up on the Internet asking when the appropriate time to prune American Pillar was. A gent from the Southern US replied "The appropriate time to prune American Pillar here is every second Wednesday!"
The appropriate pruning time in Victoria is a matter of personal preference - you can prune any time from mid-December up until April. If you prune early, you risk losing early shoots to frost, but reduce wind damage from winter storms. If you prune later, the rose has already broken dormancy (or like this year, never went to sleep in the first place) and has expended considerable energy into the new growth that you are chopping off.
There is no right answer - prune when the spirit moves you, and keep a record of how YOUR roses responded - then repeat what works for you.
Friday, December 28, 2007
Roses Garden - Rose Classification by Trevor Inkpen
The first thing to say about the classification of roses is that there are several systems in use, and there is by no means any universal agreement on the "right" one. In Canada we follow the system used by the American Rose Society (ARS), which has itself changed over the years.
Species (Sp) This class incorporates the native roses of the world, and their natural crosses. As a class, they tend to have small, simple flowers, bloom once per year and be hardy and disease resistant, (although those qualities pertain to their native climates). All roses are ultimately descended from species roses, however it is often unclear which species make up a rose's family tree.
OLD GARDEN ROSES (OGR) are a grouping of ARS classes of roses that were introduced before 1867 - also referred to as Heritage roses or Antique roses.
Alba (A) Originally damask or gallica and R. canina crosses, dating from the 15th century. In general, tall and vigorous, with few prickles, tough gray-green leaves and mostly fully double blooms.
Ayrshire (Ayr)
Bourbon & Climbing Bourbon (B & Cl B) - A hybrid of Chinas and 'Autumn Damask', repeat blooming with large, fragrant multi-petalled flowers. Developed on (and named for) the Ile de Bourbon in the Indian Ocean.
Boursalt (Bslt)
Centifolia (C) or Provence Roses - "100 petal" roses, also known as cabbage roses for their densely packed globe-like flowers. Centifolias may be a cross between 'Autumn Damask' and an alba. Drooping leaves, long, arching thorny stems and highly fragrant, nodding flowers.
Damask (D) - Related to gallicas but larger and taller, damasks are the most fragrant of the old garden roses. Grown in the Middle East since Roman times for perfume - rose oil and attar of roses. Semi-double or double blooms. 'Autumn Damask' is the only repeat bloomer.
Hybrid Bracteata (HBc)
Hybrid China & Climbing Hybrid China (HCh & Cl HCh) - Everblooming roses first discovered in China, and their first-generation hybrids. Brought in the late 18th century to Europe, where many new cultivars were created. These are the everblooming ancestors of modern, repeat-blooming roses. Some Chinas are low growing; some have tall canes and can be treated as climbers. Not particularly hardy.
Hybrid Eglanteria (HEg) or Sweet Briar - Originally eglantine rose crossed with hybrid perpetual, Bourbons or other roses, these large, arching shrubs can reach 10 to 12 feet. Their foliage has a spicy apple scent, blooms are borne either singly or in clusters, are fragrant, and develop bright-red hips in the fall.Once blooming, although a few varieties will repeat.
Hybrid Foetida (HFt) Hybrids of R. foetida, "Austrian Yellow" brought the previously unknown yellow colour into European rose breeding. Noted for their un-rose like fragrance.
Hybrid Gallica (HGal) Descendants of R. gallica, probably the oldest cultivated rose in existence in the West, having been recorded as early as 1200 BC in Persia. These are low shrubs, suckering (producing new shoots along the roots), with large, fragrant flowers borne singly or in clusters, and few thorns.
Hybrid Multiflora (HMult) - Rambling roses descended from R. multiflora, long lax canes, large clusters of small flowers.
Hybrid Perpetual & Climbing Hybrid Perpetual (HP & Cl HP) - Crosses between Portland roses, hybrid Chinas, gallicas and Bourbons, these were popular in the 1800's. Large, fragrant, full blooms on short stems. Generally hardy, and range in habit from upright to sprawling.
Ancestors of the Hybrid Tea rose.
Hybrid Sempervirens (HSem)
Hybrid Setigera (HSet)
Hybrid Pimpinellifolia, or Hybrid Spinosissima (HSpn) - or Scotch rose, hardy shrubs native to the British Isles and Western Europe, thorny, early flowering, tolerant of poor conditions.
Miscellaneous OGRs (Misc OGR) - catchall for all other antique roses.
Moss & Climbing Moss (M & Cl M) - A spontaneous mutation ("sport") from a centifolia rose in the 19th century, moss roses have buds and stems covered with thin, pliant clands that resemble moss. The "moss" often has a herbal or pine-like scent. Fragrant flowers, drooping leaves, and some varieties have unusual shapes of moss and sepals.
Noisette (N) - The original Noisettes were a cross between a China rose and European rose, and are not very hardy.
Portland (P) - Fragrant flowers, compact bush, good for bedding. Popular in the early 19th century because of their repeat-blooming flowers.
Tea & Climbing Tea (T & Cl T) - Fragrant forms of the China roses, with small leaves and stems, not particularly hardy. The first teas were crosses between R. chinensis and R. gigantea. Their scent is said to be reminiscent of tea.
MODERN ROSES are a group of ARS classes representing roses introduced after 1867
Floribunda and Climbing Floribunda (F & Cl F) - Originally hybrids of polyanthas and hybrid teas. Floribundas (the name means "cluster-flowered") are hardy, large, shrubby bushes that bloom continuously all summer, usually in large clusters of small to medium sized double blooms.
Grandiflora & Climbing Grandiflora (Gr & Cl Gr) - Descended from hybrid tea / floribunda crosses, with clustered flowers of the floribundas but larger blooms with the bloom shape and long stems of hybrid teas. Grandifloras often over 6 feet tall, with profuse bloom.
The most popular Grandiflora is "Queen Elizabeth"
Hybrid Kordesii (HKor) - a line of shrub roses developed by the Kordes company, incorporating some R. rugosa traits, generally hardy and disease resistant.
Hybrid Moyesii (HMoy)
Hybrid Musk (HMsk) - Shrub roses only distantly related to the musk rose, bred by Joseph Pemberton between 1913 and 1926, continuous clusters of flowers. Can tolerate poor growing conditions, such as poor soil and shade. Many set good hips (fruits). Some hybrid musks can be trained as climbers.
Hybrid Rugosa (HRg) - Hybrids of hybrid teas and R. rugosa. Some of the hardiest roses, these are easy-care, disease-resistant roses. Foliage is characteristically leathery and heavily patterned, flowers attractive but with limp petals so they don't last well as cut flowers. As a class they do not tolerate insecticidal or antifungal sprays well.Thorny and dense, attractive hips in wintertime, work well as a hedge or landscape rose.
Hybrid Wichurana (HWich) - Mostly Rambler roses descended from the oriental species R. wichuraiana, characteristically long, flexible canes either climbing or groundcover, with clusters of smallish flowers.
Hybrid Tea & Climbing Hybrid Tea (HT & Cl HT) - The most popular modern rose type, started as a cross between Hybrid Perpetual and Tea roses, the first Hybrid Tea is generally credited as being "La France" in 1867. The Hybrid Tea has become the 20th century's conception of the archetypical Rose. Large flowers, usually in a pointed, spiral-petal form, bourne usually singly on long stems. Hybrid teas bloom often, in a wide range of colors, some are fragrant but as a class, during thepast 50 years the form of the bloom was selected for over fragrance, resulting in many beautiful Hybrid teas with little or no fragrance (see English Roses below).
Large-Flowered Climber (LCl) -Climbers have tall stems that with support can be trained to grow upright. Some climbers are everblooming; others bloom just once at the beginning of the season. "Large-Flowered" is a somewhat arbitrary division between these and Hyb.
Wichuraianas (Ramblers), climbing roses with very pliable canes generally with smaller flowers. Note that roses do not twine or have tendrils like ivies and vines, so are not true "climbers" - they do need some support and tying in to help them along.
Miniature & Climbing Miniature (Min & Cl Min) - Except for the miniature cascading and climbing roses, these grow to just 10 to 18 inches, with proportionately small leaves, stems and flowers. They're very hardy, and unlike many modern roses, most grow on their own rootstocks.
Mini-Flora (MinFl) - A newly introduced class that covers cluster-flowered bush roses less than 2.5 feet tall but larger than Miniatures. Replaces the common term Patio rose.
Polyantha & Climbing Polyantha (Pol & Cl Pol) - Low-growing shrubs to about 2 feet, with large clusters of small flowers. They are gernerally hardy and bloom continuously. Good for borders or bedding but not noted for fragrance.
Shrub (S) - An omnibus category including robust, bushy or spreading roses with repeat bloom, most double but some single, and mostly clustered blooms.
OTHER CATEGORIES
In addition, there are groupings that decribe the growth habit of a rose or a marketing characteristic, rather than its provenance. These often overlap the ARS categories.
Landscape Roses - shrubs that are well suited to mass planting, are low maintenance and tend to be spreading rather than tall.
Groundcover Roses (gc) - short roses that spread sideways or lay on the ground (procumbent) and form dense growth suitable for covering wide areas.
Tree Roses or Standard Roses - a classification of culture rather than of the rose itself, tree roses are created by pruning and grafting a rose onto a sturdy, tall stem to produce a long trunk with foliage and flowers at the top. The grafted variety could be virtually any type, although Hybrid Teasz are most popular. Stunning results can be achieved by grafting a groundcover or other lax-caned rose onto a standard trunk, creating a cascading or weeping bush.
Patio Roses (now replaced by the term Mini-Flora in ARS terminology) Primarily a marketing term, referring to roses of less than 2.5 feet in height, suitable for container growing on a deck or patio. Also generally good for borders.
Ramblers (R) (obsolete in the ARS system, now combined with "Climbers and Wichuraiana Ramblers") Summer-blooming climbing roses with long flexible canes. May be descended from Multiflora or Wichuraiana or other species.
English Roses or Austin Roses (shrubs) - Shrub roses created by crossing modern, repeat blooming roses with older, fragrant many-petalled varieties such as Bourbon and Gallica.
Characterized by better fragrance than the average Hybrid Tea, clusters of many-petalled blooms in older-style cupped, globular or quartered forms, many have somewhat lax canes and short flower stems. Popularized by the firm of David Austin in England, although also bred by a number of other growers in various countries.
Canadian Heritage, Explorer Series, Brownell Sub-Zero, Griffith Buck Roses, Parkland Series roses (shrubs) - Roses developed specifically for winter hardiness and disease resistance in Canada and the Northern US, often incorporating native North American species bloodlines and other hardy parents such as R. rugosa and Kordesii. Winter hardiness varies by variety.
OTHER SYSTEMS
The problem comes in when you try to decide what to classify roses by: date of introduction, growth habit, ancestry, blooming characteristics, size, place of origin or some combination of the above?
Peter Beales, noted Enghlish rose breeder and author, proposes a simplified system grouped by flower type than growth habit
Grandiflora (large flowers, one per stem or small clusters)- Bush, - Shrub- Climber- ProcumbentFloribunda (clusters of flowers)- Compact- Bush- Shrub- Climber- ProcumbentMiniatureMiniature Climber
The British Association of Rose Breeders proposes:
1) Species and Groups
2) China
3) Noisette
4) Tea
5) Hybrid Tea
6) Floribunda
7) Florishrub
8) Miniature
9) Patio
10) Climbing Hybrid Tea
11) Climbing Floribunda
12) Climbing Miniature
13) Polyantha
14) Climbing Polyantha
15) Hybrid Musk
16) Wichuriana Ramber
17) Wichuriana Carpet
18) Wichuriana Shrub
19) Gallica
20) Damask
21) Centifolia
22) Moss
23) Portland
24) Bourbon
25) Hybrid Perpetual
26) English
27) Scotch
28) Alba
29) Sweet Briar
30) Rugosa
Species (Sp) This class incorporates the native roses of the world, and their natural crosses. As a class, they tend to have small, simple flowers, bloom once per year and be hardy and disease resistant, (although those qualities pertain to their native climates). All roses are ultimately descended from species roses, however it is often unclear which species make up a rose's family tree.
OLD GARDEN ROSES (OGR) are a grouping of ARS classes of roses that were introduced before 1867 - also referred to as Heritage roses or Antique roses.
Alba (A) Originally damask or gallica and R. canina crosses, dating from the 15th century. In general, tall and vigorous, with few prickles, tough gray-green leaves and mostly fully double blooms.
Ayrshire (Ayr)
Bourbon & Climbing Bourbon (B & Cl B) - A hybrid of Chinas and 'Autumn Damask', repeat blooming with large, fragrant multi-petalled flowers. Developed on (and named for) the Ile de Bourbon in the Indian Ocean.
Boursalt (Bslt)
Centifolia (C) or Provence Roses - "100 petal" roses, also known as cabbage roses for their densely packed globe-like flowers. Centifolias may be a cross between 'Autumn Damask' and an alba. Drooping leaves, long, arching thorny stems and highly fragrant, nodding flowers.
Damask (D) - Related to gallicas but larger and taller, damasks are the most fragrant of the old garden roses. Grown in the Middle East since Roman times for perfume - rose oil and attar of roses. Semi-double or double blooms. 'Autumn Damask' is the only repeat bloomer.
Hybrid Bracteata (HBc)
Hybrid China & Climbing Hybrid China (HCh & Cl HCh) - Everblooming roses first discovered in China, and their first-generation hybrids. Brought in the late 18th century to Europe, where many new cultivars were created. These are the everblooming ancestors of modern, repeat-blooming roses. Some Chinas are low growing; some have tall canes and can be treated as climbers. Not particularly hardy.
Hybrid Eglanteria (HEg) or Sweet Briar - Originally eglantine rose crossed with hybrid perpetual, Bourbons or other roses, these large, arching shrubs can reach 10 to 12 feet. Their foliage has a spicy apple scent, blooms are borne either singly or in clusters, are fragrant, and develop bright-red hips in the fall.Once blooming, although a few varieties will repeat.
Hybrid Foetida (HFt) Hybrids of R. foetida, "Austrian Yellow" brought the previously unknown yellow colour into European rose breeding. Noted for their un-rose like fragrance.
Hybrid Gallica (HGal) Descendants of R. gallica, probably the oldest cultivated rose in existence in the West, having been recorded as early as 1200 BC in Persia. These are low shrubs, suckering (producing new shoots along the roots), with large, fragrant flowers borne singly or in clusters, and few thorns.
Hybrid Multiflora (HMult) - Rambling roses descended from R. multiflora, long lax canes, large clusters of small flowers.
Hybrid Perpetual & Climbing Hybrid Perpetual (HP & Cl HP) - Crosses between Portland roses, hybrid Chinas, gallicas and Bourbons, these were popular in the 1800's. Large, fragrant, full blooms on short stems. Generally hardy, and range in habit from upright to sprawling.
Ancestors of the Hybrid Tea rose.
Hybrid Sempervirens (HSem)
Hybrid Setigera (HSet)
Hybrid Pimpinellifolia, or Hybrid Spinosissima (HSpn) - or Scotch rose, hardy shrubs native to the British Isles and Western Europe, thorny, early flowering, tolerant of poor conditions.
Miscellaneous OGRs (Misc OGR) - catchall for all other antique roses.
Moss & Climbing Moss (M & Cl M) - A spontaneous mutation ("sport") from a centifolia rose in the 19th century, moss roses have buds and stems covered with thin, pliant clands that resemble moss. The "moss" often has a herbal or pine-like scent. Fragrant flowers, drooping leaves, and some varieties have unusual shapes of moss and sepals.
Noisette (N) - The original Noisettes were a cross between a China rose and European rose, and are not very hardy.
Portland (P) - Fragrant flowers, compact bush, good for bedding. Popular in the early 19th century because of their repeat-blooming flowers.
Tea & Climbing Tea (T & Cl T) - Fragrant forms of the China roses, with small leaves and stems, not particularly hardy. The first teas were crosses between R. chinensis and R. gigantea. Their scent is said to be reminiscent of tea.
MODERN ROSES are a group of ARS classes representing roses introduced after 1867
Floribunda and Climbing Floribunda (F & Cl F) - Originally hybrids of polyanthas and hybrid teas. Floribundas (the name means "cluster-flowered") are hardy, large, shrubby bushes that bloom continuously all summer, usually in large clusters of small to medium sized double blooms.
Grandiflora & Climbing Grandiflora (Gr & Cl Gr) - Descended from hybrid tea / floribunda crosses, with clustered flowers of the floribundas but larger blooms with the bloom shape and long stems of hybrid teas. Grandifloras often over 6 feet tall, with profuse bloom.
The most popular Grandiflora is "Queen Elizabeth"
Hybrid Kordesii (HKor) - a line of shrub roses developed by the Kordes company, incorporating some R. rugosa traits, generally hardy and disease resistant.
Hybrid Moyesii (HMoy)
Hybrid Musk (HMsk) - Shrub roses only distantly related to the musk rose, bred by Joseph Pemberton between 1913 and 1926, continuous clusters of flowers. Can tolerate poor growing conditions, such as poor soil and shade. Many set good hips (fruits). Some hybrid musks can be trained as climbers.
Hybrid Rugosa (HRg) - Hybrids of hybrid teas and R. rugosa. Some of the hardiest roses, these are easy-care, disease-resistant roses. Foliage is characteristically leathery and heavily patterned, flowers attractive but with limp petals so they don't last well as cut flowers. As a class they do not tolerate insecticidal or antifungal sprays well.Thorny and dense, attractive hips in wintertime, work well as a hedge or landscape rose.
Hybrid Wichurana (HWich) - Mostly Rambler roses descended from the oriental species R. wichuraiana, characteristically long, flexible canes either climbing or groundcover, with clusters of smallish flowers.
Hybrid Tea & Climbing Hybrid Tea (HT & Cl HT) - The most popular modern rose type, started as a cross between Hybrid Perpetual and Tea roses, the first Hybrid Tea is generally credited as being "La France" in 1867. The Hybrid Tea has become the 20th century's conception of the archetypical Rose. Large flowers, usually in a pointed, spiral-petal form, bourne usually singly on long stems. Hybrid teas bloom often, in a wide range of colors, some are fragrant but as a class, during thepast 50 years the form of the bloom was selected for over fragrance, resulting in many beautiful Hybrid teas with little or no fragrance (see English Roses below).
Large-Flowered Climber (LCl) -Climbers have tall stems that with support can be trained to grow upright. Some climbers are everblooming; others bloom just once at the beginning of the season. "Large-Flowered" is a somewhat arbitrary division between these and Hyb.
Wichuraianas (Ramblers), climbing roses with very pliable canes generally with smaller flowers. Note that roses do not twine or have tendrils like ivies and vines, so are not true "climbers" - they do need some support and tying in to help them along.
Miniature & Climbing Miniature (Min & Cl Min) - Except for the miniature cascading and climbing roses, these grow to just 10 to 18 inches, with proportionately small leaves, stems and flowers. They're very hardy, and unlike many modern roses, most grow on their own rootstocks.
Mini-Flora (MinFl) - A newly introduced class that covers cluster-flowered bush roses less than 2.5 feet tall but larger than Miniatures. Replaces the common term Patio rose.
Polyantha & Climbing Polyantha (Pol & Cl Pol) - Low-growing shrubs to about 2 feet, with large clusters of small flowers. They are gernerally hardy and bloom continuously. Good for borders or bedding but not noted for fragrance.
Shrub (S) - An omnibus category including robust, bushy or spreading roses with repeat bloom, most double but some single, and mostly clustered blooms.
OTHER CATEGORIES
In addition, there are groupings that decribe the growth habit of a rose or a marketing characteristic, rather than its provenance. These often overlap the ARS categories.
Landscape Roses - shrubs that are well suited to mass planting, are low maintenance and tend to be spreading rather than tall.
Groundcover Roses (gc) - short roses that spread sideways or lay on the ground (procumbent) and form dense growth suitable for covering wide areas.
Tree Roses or Standard Roses - a classification of culture rather than of the rose itself, tree roses are created by pruning and grafting a rose onto a sturdy, tall stem to produce a long trunk with foliage and flowers at the top. The grafted variety could be virtually any type, although Hybrid Teasz are most popular. Stunning results can be achieved by grafting a groundcover or other lax-caned rose onto a standard trunk, creating a cascading or weeping bush.
Patio Roses (now replaced by the term Mini-Flora in ARS terminology) Primarily a marketing term, referring to roses of less than 2.5 feet in height, suitable for container growing on a deck or patio. Also generally good for borders.
Ramblers (R) (obsolete in the ARS system, now combined with "Climbers and Wichuraiana Ramblers") Summer-blooming climbing roses with long flexible canes. May be descended from Multiflora or Wichuraiana or other species.
English Roses or Austin Roses (shrubs) - Shrub roses created by crossing modern, repeat blooming roses with older, fragrant many-petalled varieties such as Bourbon and Gallica.
Characterized by better fragrance than the average Hybrid Tea, clusters of many-petalled blooms in older-style cupped, globular or quartered forms, many have somewhat lax canes and short flower stems. Popularized by the firm of David Austin in England, although also bred by a number of other growers in various countries.
Canadian Heritage, Explorer Series, Brownell Sub-Zero, Griffith Buck Roses, Parkland Series roses (shrubs) - Roses developed specifically for winter hardiness and disease resistance in Canada and the Northern US, often incorporating native North American species bloodlines and other hardy parents such as R. rugosa and Kordesii. Winter hardiness varies by variety.
OTHER SYSTEMS
The problem comes in when you try to decide what to classify roses by: date of introduction, growth habit, ancestry, blooming characteristics, size, place of origin or some combination of the above?
Peter Beales, noted Enghlish rose breeder and author, proposes a simplified system grouped by flower type than growth habit
Grandiflora (large flowers, one per stem or small clusters)- Bush, - Shrub- Climber- ProcumbentFloribunda (clusters of flowers)- Compact- Bush- Shrub- Climber- ProcumbentMiniatureMiniature Climber
The British Association of Rose Breeders proposes:
1) Species and Groups
2) China
3) Noisette
4) Tea
5) Hybrid Tea
6) Floribunda
7) Florishrub
8) Miniature
9) Patio
10) Climbing Hybrid Tea
11) Climbing Floribunda
12) Climbing Miniature
13) Polyantha
14) Climbing Polyantha
15) Hybrid Musk
16) Wichuriana Ramber
17) Wichuriana Carpet
18) Wichuriana Shrub
19) Gallica
20) Damask
21) Centifolia
22) Moss
23) Portland
24) Bourbon
25) Hybrid Perpetual
26) English
27) Scotch
28) Alba
29) Sweet Briar
30) Rugosa
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Roses Garden - Some Thoughts On PLANTING ROSES
Although all kinds of gardening is my passion in life, nothing but nothing gives me greater pleasure than my beautiful rose garden. They are just so stunning, and I do really love the colors and the amazing varieties which are available.
To get the best from your rose garden however there are quite a few important pointers to bear in mind, and I would like to share some of these with you.
When the spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have actually been a cherished aphrodisiac since Biblical times, and have been around for over 3000 years. Despite this, they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they look and smell fantastic.
One of the most important rules of growing roses, is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day. It is also advisable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush, because many of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's growth.
If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1-1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it.
When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, do make sure that you consider the growth characteristics of the rose in question.
To give you an example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them unrestricted growth, and greatly increases the potential for some superb looking blooms. Roses also look really beautiful in island beds mixed in with perennials, and miniature roses make great edging plants in front of the taller varieties.
If you plant them singly, shrub roses can make excellent specimen plants, or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage the unsightly parts of your garden.
Dig a hole large enough for the root mass, and loosen the bottom of the hole. I suggest that you should also add some bone meal which is a slow acting source of phosphorus.
This leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.
The plant should then be placed in the hole very carefully and the hole refilled with soil, making sure that the roots are properly covered. Water the rose plant well, and let it absorb the water before applying the final covering of soil. When this has been completed, water the plant some more and create a mound of soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted.
Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves start to open.
Special care should be taken with the planting depth, which varies considerably according to the climate you live in. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with other people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level. The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature.
Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F in either fall or spring, planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures drop below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferable. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.
The spacing of the rose plant is also highly influenced by the temperature.
In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow so large as when in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1-1/2 to 3 feet apart, but large vigorous growers such as hybrid perpetuals will need 3 to 5 feet of space, while the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.
If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthily if proper care is taken, but the gardener must be prepared to endure that cold and probably wet experience. In colder areas, roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th or thereabouts.
These few pointers will help to ensure that your roses grow well, and bloom nicely all summer long.
I would also like to share with you a few important additional thoughts on how you can avoid the diseases which can attack your roses.
To make sure that your most prized roses are in the pink or even red of their health, simply follow these tips on dealing with the most common rose health problems.
Black Spots On Leaves.
This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on the leaves, and they cause them to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays can be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.
Stunted Or Malformed Young Canes.
Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It also makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this particular disease, which could totally ruin your rose garden.
Blistered Underside Of Leaves.
A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring it will attack the new sprouts, and this disease can even survive the winter. What you should do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall, and also spraying Benomyl and Funginex every 7-10 days will help.
Malformed Or Stunted Leaves And Flowers
The one most likely cause of this is the presence of spider mites. These are tiny yellow red or green spiders which cling to the underside of the leaves. They will suck the juices from the leaves, but the application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.
Weak And Mottled Leaves Showing Tiny White Webs Underneath.
This might be caused by aphids, which are small soft-bodied insects, usually brown, green, or red. Often found clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. However Malathion or Diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.
Flowers That Do Not Open Or Are Deformed When They Do Open.
Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened flowers, and it is characterized with slender brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings, which thrive in the flower buds. These will also suck the juices from the flower buds, so therefore you should cut and discard all infested flowers.
Using Orthene and Malathion will help to treat this health problem with your roses.
I do hope that this information regarding those diseases that your roses can fall prone to, have will prove to be very helpful in making your rose gardening more rewarding and fruitful.
About the Author
Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening enthusiast with a passion for exotic flowers and wonderful colors. She is a regular contributor to Garden Center Showplace a leading online Garden Center. For more details of the superb range of products offered, and also more Featured Articles and Tips on Gardening
To get the best from your rose garden however there are quite a few important pointers to bear in mind, and I would like to share some of these with you.
When the spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have actually been a cherished aphrodisiac since Biblical times, and have been around for over 3000 years. Despite this, they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they look and smell fantastic.
One of the most important rules of growing roses, is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day. It is also advisable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush, because many of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's growth.
If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1-1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it.
When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, do make sure that you consider the growth characteristics of the rose in question.
To give you an example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them unrestricted growth, and greatly increases the potential for some superb looking blooms. Roses also look really beautiful in island beds mixed in with perennials, and miniature roses make great edging plants in front of the taller varieties.
If you plant them singly, shrub roses can make excellent specimen plants, or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage the unsightly parts of your garden.
Dig a hole large enough for the root mass, and loosen the bottom of the hole. I suggest that you should also add some bone meal which is a slow acting source of phosphorus.
This leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.
The plant should then be placed in the hole very carefully and the hole refilled with soil, making sure that the roots are properly covered. Water the rose plant well, and let it absorb the water before applying the final covering of soil. When this has been completed, water the plant some more and create a mound of soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted.
Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves start to open.
Special care should be taken with the planting depth, which varies considerably according to the climate you live in. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with other people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level. The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature.
Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F in either fall or spring, planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures drop below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferable. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.
The spacing of the rose plant is also highly influenced by the temperature.
In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow so large as when in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1-1/2 to 3 feet apart, but large vigorous growers such as hybrid perpetuals will need 3 to 5 feet of space, while the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.
If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthily if proper care is taken, but the gardener must be prepared to endure that cold and probably wet experience. In colder areas, roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th or thereabouts.
These few pointers will help to ensure that your roses grow well, and bloom nicely all summer long.
I would also like to share with you a few important additional thoughts on how you can avoid the diseases which can attack your roses.
To make sure that your most prized roses are in the pink or even red of their health, simply follow these tips on dealing with the most common rose health problems.
Black Spots On Leaves.
This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on the leaves, and they cause them to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays can be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.
Stunted Or Malformed Young Canes.
Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It also makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this particular disease, which could totally ruin your rose garden.
Blistered Underside Of Leaves.
A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring it will attack the new sprouts, and this disease can even survive the winter. What you should do is to collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall, and also spraying Benomyl and Funginex every 7-10 days will help.
Malformed Or Stunted Leaves And Flowers
The one most likely cause of this is the presence of spider mites. These are tiny yellow red or green spiders which cling to the underside of the leaves. They will suck the juices from the leaves, but the application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.
Weak And Mottled Leaves Showing Tiny White Webs Underneath.
This might be caused by aphids, which are small soft-bodied insects, usually brown, green, or red. Often found clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. However Malathion or Diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.
Flowers That Do Not Open Or Are Deformed When They Do Open.
Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened flowers, and it is characterized with slender brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings, which thrive in the flower buds. These will also suck the juices from the flower buds, so therefore you should cut and discard all infested flowers.
Using Orthene and Malathion will help to treat this health problem with your roses.
I do hope that this information regarding those diseases that your roses can fall prone to, have will prove to be very helpful in making your rose gardening more rewarding and fruitful.
About the Author
Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening enthusiast with a passion for exotic flowers and wonderful colors. She is a regular contributor to Garden Center Showplace a leading online Garden Center. For more details of the superb range of products offered, and also more Featured Articles and Tips on Gardening
PLANTING ROSES - Tips And Ideas To Ensure Beautiful Results
inding the best types of roses can be a confusing task when you consider the multitude of varieties that are available. Here are a few suggestions that will help you produce beautiful roses that are sure to be the envy of the neighborhood:
Ask your local garden center or nursery about the best types of roses to plant in your particular area. Different climates require different kinds of roses if you want to achieve outstanding results. If you are a beginner, be sure to choose disease-resistant rose bushes, as they will require less maintenance and care.
You must choose a spot to plant your rose bushes that is well lit in the mornings and that will receive at least 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day. You must have well-drained soil with a PH level 5.5 to 7.0. You will be able to find a testing kit at your local garden center. The test kits are quite inexpensive and could save you a lot of difficulties after planting your rose bushes.
When planting your roses, include plenty of organic matter in the soil surrounding the plants. Make sure the roots of the rose bush are very damp and well fertilized before you actually plant it. If you are PLANTING ROSES that have very little soil surrounding the roots, soak the roots in water or puddle clay for several minutes and cut off any roots that are damaged or broken before planting.
The first few weeks after planting rose bushes, you should water thoroughly and often. When the top two inches of soil surrounding the plant becomes dry, water the ground until it is completely soaked. After your roses have become established, soak your bed approximately every two weeks for best results. If you live in an area that is extremely dry or hot you may consider watering more often. Be careful not to over-water your roses and it is best to water in the early mornings.
For the best results, plant rose bushes in the early spring after any danger of a freeze has passed. Also, the rose should be planted in an area that is open and gets plenty of air circulation. Roses do not grow well in a tight or enclosed space
Ask your local garden center or nursery about the best types of roses to plant in your particular area. Different climates require different kinds of roses if you want to achieve outstanding results. If you are a beginner, be sure to choose disease-resistant rose bushes, as they will require less maintenance and care.
You must choose a spot to plant your rose bushes that is well lit in the mornings and that will receive at least 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day. You must have well-drained soil with a PH level 5.5 to 7.0. You will be able to find a testing kit at your local garden center. The test kits are quite inexpensive and could save you a lot of difficulties after planting your rose bushes.
When planting your roses, include plenty of organic matter in the soil surrounding the plants. Make sure the roots of the rose bush are very damp and well fertilized before you actually plant it. If you are PLANTING ROSES that have very little soil surrounding the roots, soak the roots in water or puddle clay for several minutes and cut off any roots that are damaged or broken before planting.
The first few weeks after planting rose bushes, you should water thoroughly and often. When the top two inches of soil surrounding the plant becomes dry, water the ground until it is completely soaked. After your roses have become established, soak your bed approximately every two weeks for best results. If you live in an area that is extremely dry or hot you may consider watering more often. Be careful not to over-water your roses and it is best to water in the early mornings.
For the best results, plant rose bushes in the early spring after any danger of a freeze has passed. Also, the rose should be planted in an area that is open and gets plenty of air circulation. Roses do not grow well in a tight or enclosed space
Growing Roses - Rose Cutting Tips That Maximize Display Life
What could smell or look lovelier than a vase full of stunning roses? With just a little care, they can last a very long time in a vase.
5 Tips For Cutting Roses
1. Wait until after 3 p.m. to cut, when their nutrient levels are the highest.
2. Choose buds that have just started to open, only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process. Once a bud has fully opened, it's too late to cut.
3. Always use a sharp, clean pair of shears. Dull shears crush the stem, and dirty shears can transmit diseases.
4. Don't remove all of the leaves -- keep at least 3 to help feed the bloom. Remove only leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.
5. Once you have finished cutting all the roses for the day, bring them inside to begin the water conditioning and hardening process.
9 Tips For Preserving Roses
Now that they are cut, the clock starts ticking.
The first threat to a cut rose's health is the air pocket that entered the stem when you cut the rose outdoors. It will work its way up to the stem, cutting off the nutrient supply and shortening the bloom's life.
1. Replace that air with water. The easiest way is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into.
2. Add any floral preservative you use, plus a few drops of bleach.
3. Place all of the rose stems into the bowl without the buds touching the hot water.
4. Use your shears to cut 1/4 inch off the end of each stem.
5. Leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.
6. Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or 2 of bleach, and some preservative.
7. Finally add your roses.
8. Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill the vase with warm water, add another drop or 2 of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.
9. When the blooms begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place them in hot water for an hour before returning them to the vase.
This little bit of extra work will vastly extend the vase life of your cut roses. Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you will help them.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer.
5 Tips For Cutting Roses
1. Wait until after 3 p.m. to cut, when their nutrient levels are the highest.
2. Choose buds that have just started to open, only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process. Once a bud has fully opened, it's too late to cut.
3. Always use a sharp, clean pair of shears. Dull shears crush the stem, and dirty shears can transmit diseases.
4. Don't remove all of the leaves -- keep at least 3 to help feed the bloom. Remove only leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.
5. Once you have finished cutting all the roses for the day, bring them inside to begin the water conditioning and hardening process.
9 Tips For Preserving Roses
Now that they are cut, the clock starts ticking.
The first threat to a cut rose's health is the air pocket that entered the stem when you cut the rose outdoors. It will work its way up to the stem, cutting off the nutrient supply and shortening the bloom's life.
1. Replace that air with water. The easiest way is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into.
2. Add any floral preservative you use, plus a few drops of bleach.
3. Place all of the rose stems into the bowl without the buds touching the hot water.
4. Use your shears to cut 1/4 inch off the end of each stem.
5. Leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.
6. Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or 2 of bleach, and some preservative.
7. Finally add your roses.
8. Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill the vase with warm water, add another drop or 2 of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.
9. When the blooms begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place them in hot water for an hour before returning them to the vase.
This little bit of extra work will vastly extend the vase life of your cut roses. Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you will help them.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Roses Garden - 5 Secrets to Growing Beautiful Roses
A rose is a rose is a rose - and there are few things in the garden more beautiful. There are 5 secrets I want to share that will help you to grow healthy roses.
1. Sunshine: Plan to put your rose bush in a spot where it will get as much sun at least 6 hours of sunshine a day.
2. Water: Drops of water on the leaves can cause burning, and lead to black spot disease so always water from underneath, soaking the earth until it is damp but not soggy. It is better to water thoroughly once a week than lightly several times in the same period.
Beware if your Roses get too much water, they'll drown. Water in the morning or at least four or five hours before dusk so that any excess moisture can be absorbed by the heat of the day.
3. Planting & Soil: As soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring, turn the soil to the depth of the spade. To the loosened soil add 1/3 to 1/2 as much again of composted humus like leaf mold, peat moss, or composted manure, together with coarse sand. Make sure to work the soil at least a month before planting.
4. Tidy, Tidy: Keep Roses healthy, it is important to gather up withered petals and leaves and pick off any live leaves with black spots. Prevent black spot - mix 1 tbs of baking soda with 1 tbs of liquid dish soap and 1 gallon of water together and spray your Rose leaves.
5. Prune: Always prune 1/4" above an outward facing bud. Always use a sharp knife or hand pruners. Never prune in fall. Always cut off the suckers, they grow just below the bud union; follow them down to where they begin and carefully remove them to encourage strong new growth.
Roses are classified into types according to ancestry, bush type, and flower form and size - ask at your local nursery for the type you prefer.
1. Sunshine: Plan to put your rose bush in a spot where it will get as much sun at least 6 hours of sunshine a day.
2. Water: Drops of water on the leaves can cause burning, and lead to black spot disease so always water from underneath, soaking the earth until it is damp but not soggy. It is better to water thoroughly once a week than lightly several times in the same period.
Beware if your Roses get too much water, they'll drown. Water in the morning or at least four or five hours before dusk so that any excess moisture can be absorbed by the heat of the day.
3. Planting & Soil: As soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring, turn the soil to the depth of the spade. To the loosened soil add 1/3 to 1/2 as much again of composted humus like leaf mold, peat moss, or composted manure, together with coarse sand. Make sure to work the soil at least a month before planting.
4. Tidy, Tidy: Keep Roses healthy, it is important to gather up withered petals and leaves and pick off any live leaves with black spots. Prevent black spot - mix 1 tbs of baking soda with 1 tbs of liquid dish soap and 1 gallon of water together and spray your Rose leaves.
5. Prune: Always prune 1/4" above an outward facing bud. Always use a sharp knife or hand pruners. Never prune in fall. Always cut off the suckers, they grow just below the bud union; follow them down to where they begin and carefully remove them to encourage strong new growth.
Roses are classified into types according to ancestry, bush type, and flower form and size - ask at your local nursery for the type you prefer.
Roses Garden - How to Grow Organic Roses
Many people are now getting into growing all things organic. Farmers are doing it with produce and meats, so it is natural that you might want to grow your roses that way also. Many people have problems using the pesticides and insecticides that go along with growing roses and keeping them healthy. Well, now you can use more natural methods of growing your roses. I will show you how in step by step detail.
1. Each bush that you want to plant will need to have a foot of space all around it so that the flowers can get the proper amount of circulation. It also helps to prevent leaf diseases for your roses.
2. You will want to purchase organic roses. You will want to buy roses that have a sturdy green stem and no blemishes on them. Bare root roses are best for this.
3. Along with roses that have green stems, you will need to look for stems that have evenly spaced leaves that are close together.
4. You will need to use well drained soil so that you can promote the healthy growth that will give the flower all of the water and nutrients that it needs from the root to the flower's head.
5. Fix the soil so that you can build organically. You should use a raised bead if drainage is a constant problem. Ask your local garden center rep about how best to fix your soil to be organically correct.
6. Soak your bare root roses in a large container of composte tea for many hours before you plant them.
7. You must mound up enough good organic sol that is mixed with an equal amount of composte in the middle so that you can spread the roots out and down from where they meet at the trunk.
8. Now, plant the rose at the point where the stem breaks into the root so that it is at soil level, or approximately 1 inch below the top level if you live in an area that is prone to hard winters.
9. You have to check your bare root roses first. If your roots grow out in a tight circle, you have to cut a straight slice down each of its four sides. A knife is good for this. Then you will dig a hole that is 2 inches deeper than the container and at least twice as wide.
10. Mix your organic soil garden soil with an equal amount of composte and use your hands to gently spread the roots into the soil mix.
11. You have to mulch to help you prevent your roses from being exposed to weeds, and water stress complications. It will also ensure that your roses remain at their lowest possible maintenance level.
12. You must feed your roses organically also. Fertilize with organic fertilizer and maintain a regular watering schedule.
13. Water your organic roses deep at the planting, and then once every week after that during growing season so that you can promote deep roots. Watering in the early morning is best.
14. You must cultivate the top inch of your soil around each of your roses and fertilize on a monthly basis with a balanced organic fertilizer. You will need a good granular type of fertilizer that you can work into the soil. Either that, or you can use a fish emulsion or seaweed based product that you can mix with water because it has all of the necessary nutrients that a healthy flower needs. Check the ingredients listed on the labels to ensure that they have nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron and calcium.
15. To help protect your bed against the various types of pests and insects that can plague your roses, put sticky yellow bars every ten feet to catch them.
16. You may use an organic pesticide if the problem is bad.
17. If your pest problem is severe enough, you may use insecticidal soap to spray over your roses.
Now you have all of the necessary knowledge that you need to grow your own bed of earth friendly roses. Your flowers will be just as beautiful as those that are not grown organically, and will likely have the healthiest life span that a rose can get. Organic roses have some of the best color and "immune systems" that a rose can have. The fragrance of them can't be beaten.
1. Each bush that you want to plant will need to have a foot of space all around it so that the flowers can get the proper amount of circulation. It also helps to prevent leaf diseases for your roses.
2. You will want to purchase organic roses. You will want to buy roses that have a sturdy green stem and no blemishes on them. Bare root roses are best for this.
3. Along with roses that have green stems, you will need to look for stems that have evenly spaced leaves that are close together.
4. You will need to use well drained soil so that you can promote the healthy growth that will give the flower all of the water and nutrients that it needs from the root to the flower's head.
5. Fix the soil so that you can build organically. You should use a raised bead if drainage is a constant problem. Ask your local garden center rep about how best to fix your soil to be organically correct.
6. Soak your bare root roses in a large container of composte tea for many hours before you plant them.
7. You must mound up enough good organic sol that is mixed with an equal amount of composte in the middle so that you can spread the roots out and down from where they meet at the trunk.
8. Now, plant the rose at the point where the stem breaks into the root so that it is at soil level, or approximately 1 inch below the top level if you live in an area that is prone to hard winters.
9. You have to check your bare root roses first. If your roots grow out in a tight circle, you have to cut a straight slice down each of its four sides. A knife is good for this. Then you will dig a hole that is 2 inches deeper than the container and at least twice as wide.
10. Mix your organic soil garden soil with an equal amount of composte and use your hands to gently spread the roots into the soil mix.
11. You have to mulch to help you prevent your roses from being exposed to weeds, and water stress complications. It will also ensure that your roses remain at their lowest possible maintenance level.
12. You must feed your roses organically also. Fertilize with organic fertilizer and maintain a regular watering schedule.
13. Water your organic roses deep at the planting, and then once every week after that during growing season so that you can promote deep roots. Watering in the early morning is best.
14. You must cultivate the top inch of your soil around each of your roses and fertilize on a monthly basis with a balanced organic fertilizer. You will need a good granular type of fertilizer that you can work into the soil. Either that, or you can use a fish emulsion or seaweed based product that you can mix with water because it has all of the necessary nutrients that a healthy flower needs. Check the ingredients listed on the labels to ensure that they have nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron and calcium.
15. To help protect your bed against the various types of pests and insects that can plague your roses, put sticky yellow bars every ten feet to catch them.
16. You may use an organic pesticide if the problem is bad.
17. If your pest problem is severe enough, you may use insecticidal soap to spray over your roses.
Now you have all of the necessary knowledge that you need to grow your own bed of earth friendly roses. Your flowers will be just as beautiful as those that are not grown organically, and will likely have the healthiest life span that a rose can get. Organic roses have some of the best color and "immune systems" that a rose can have. The fragrance of them can't be beaten.
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